It was already been my dream to see Caramoan with my own two eyes even before the Survivor reality show made it famous. I first saw the pictures of it since I discovered Google Earth. Since then, I became obsessed to see it. Being a nature lover, I didn’t worry of the perils might be in going to that isolated place of bicolandia (alone). I asked my ten years old son if he wants to come, he said he is afraid to ride in a boat.
April 28, 2012, it was past six in the morning when the Queen bus line left Sorsogon. One hour passed, and I was there in Daraga, Albay waiting for a bus to Naga. At past 7am, I boarded Ibea bus line bounded to Manila. But most of the passengers were only as far as Naga City. And the bus was frequently stopping, picking up passengers. I was sure to myself that I will reach Pili, Camarines Sur by noon. Will surely be missing Raymond Bus from Manila bounded directly to Caramoan.
As I was expected, it was almost 12 noon when I dropped at the crossing of Anayan Pili. I boarded again a bus (JC Liner) and dropped at central terminal of Goa, Camarines Sur. From there, I boarded a jeep bound to Sabang. Upon reaching Sabang, porters calls for passengers going to Caramoan. I let the porter carry my duffle bag (my inflatable kayak) to the waiting area at the beach. There were already passengers waiting for the 2 pm trip. Some of them, a group of Taiwanese tourists. A big passenger boat was anchored a few distance from the shore. But it left for unknown reason. And later before 2pm, it was announced that the boat was not able to cruise. So the passengers will be divided in two smaller boats waiting by the river of Sabang behind the wet market.
This is the boat supposedly will take us to Caramoan
It took two and a half hours to reach Guijalo port in Caramoan with that boat. And it was already 4:30 pm. I asked one tricycle driver who has a passenger, if I could join the ride going to sentro ng Caramoan. Thanks God he agreed together with two other passengers. The sceneries along the way to Caramoan proper was nice but was not able to grab may camera ‘coz my right hand was gripping the hand bar (I was at the back of the driver) and the other hand was holding my back pack. But the road was far better than my tricycle ride from Bulusan proper to Bulusan Lake.
I bought three liters of mineral water, 2 cans of sardines, 2 instant noodles and worth ten pesos of bread. I didn’t starved much because I bought puto (rice cake) and baduya (fried banana) on my bus ride. It was getting dark already when I decided to proceed to the beach. I asked the tricycle drivers if how much if they will take me to Paniman Beach. They said, since it’s getting dark already, and will be no more passengers going back, they will charge 150 pesos. But they are not greedy ‘coz they suggested me to take habal-habal (single motorcycle) instead. So I rented two habal-habal. One for my self and one for my duffle bag. Fifty pesos each, so I saved fifty pesos. We let the motorcycle with my bag to lead the way so that we could keep an eye with my bag if it’s about to fall. It’s already dark when I set my foot at Paniman beach. I found myself just in front of Breezes and Waves Resort. But since I don’t have a plan to check in a hotel, I asked the caretaker if I could set up a tent there at the beach. The old man was very kind to me. And he assured me that nobody will harm me if I wished to camp there. So I started setting up my ‘hotel’. I brought a sleeping bag with me but it’s too hot to sleep in it. So I just used it as my sleeping mat.
Just camped in front of a resort to spend the first night.
I woke up early morning. My sleep was not as comfortable as sleeping at home but I could say “I survived the night”. I used my handmade camping stove (out of tin can) to boil water for my coffee. Which I partnered with the bread I bought from sentro yesterday. After breakfast, I started to prepare my first day exploration. The caretaker stayed around and watched me inflated my kayak. When everything was set, he assisted me putting my boat in the water. Caramoan here I come!!
I have printed copy of google map inside my duffle bag, but didn’t took it out ‘coz I already familiarized it. I asked the old man if that island we saw from a distance is Matukad, and he said yes. My orientation was correct hehe.
I passed by this rock on my way to Matukad Island
My first aimed Island was Matukad but did not paddle directly there. I paddled in between islets, literally exploring the place. Thanks God the water was calm and crystal clear. I constantly checking the depth of the water, not getting in too shallow where there might be protruding sharp rocks that could rip off my boat. I placed my snorkel set in front of me ready to grab just in case my kayak capsized. I also wrapped my camera in a plastic bag and placed it behind me, taking it out from time to time to capture the view. It’s a wonderful place and you could really appreciate how great God is, by His creations. Since it is still early, there are less sounds of bancas in the area. It’s so peaceful out there.
I reached Matukad Island before 7 am. And feeling proud that I was the first visitor on that day. There were no traces of footprints at the beach, except on higher grounds where had not reached by the waves during high tide. I tied my boat on a rock and submerged myself on its water. So refreshing…..
After a few minutes of snorkeling in the area, I climbed the huge boulder. It looks like a puzzle rock, stacked on top of each other that forms one boulder. The view on top was breath taking. You could see how clear the water is. On the eastern part from where I was standing, I could see the beach of Lahus Island (as per my familiarization of the place via Google Earth). A few minutes later, here comes the visitors. First boat….. second boat. A visitor from manila approached and asked if he could have a picture of himself with my kayak. In return, I asked him to snap me too. (I didn’t bring a tripod). . I left the island before the third boat came. (I shall return.)
Next stop over is Lahus or Naglahus Island. Some call it Bichara Island. It’s an island with two beach fronts (east and west side). And luckily again, I was the first visitor of the day. I anchored my boat and took some pictures of the island. The rocks of Lahus are very sharp.
I was also surveying for a good place to camp when the night comes. And there was an ideal place. And I told myself, I shall return…. A few minutes later, the first motorized boat arrived. I chit-chat with the bankero. He said they came straight from Guijalo port, and his visitor will pay him 2,500 for the island hopping. I have seen them yesterday at the waiting shed. One female, and two male. And I think they were siblings. I asked the bangkero if he knows where Tinago Cove is, and he said it’s too far from here. I said no, it’s just somewhere here. I didn’t argue with him because I am sure with myself. I’ve planned and researched for this trip for years. Maybe he was referring to different ‘tinago’ because he came from Guijalo. I joked to myself, how could I found it if is hidden. And he offered his services, “if you want, I could tow you going there….” Oh really… how nice of you…. But thanks anyway, what is the used of my paddle if you will tow me.
An island with two beach front. I’ve been dreaming for years to see this island.
Tinago, tinago, sino ang nagtago? I paddled toward south-east near the coast line. If you are far from the coastline, you will not notice that there are islets and coves before the shore or coast. I found a passage in between two huge rocks. I slowly paddled in, stop, look, and listen…. (paran tren lang ano.) And then I saw a short strip of white line. A small beach. I continued paddling in until I saw an opening channel on my left. Voila!! This is it. I found the Tinago. As I get nearer to the beach, I smell something like a cologne. Does God sprayed cologne on this place? I asked myself. Maybe it’s a fragrance from the wild flowers in the area. Once on the beach, I texted someone (yes there was signal on cp). “ I found Tinago. But I would like to call this “paradise”. The color and texture of the sand is like washed sugar. One thing that saddened me was the traces of bonfire right at the foot of a tree. The tree is already dying. Irresponsible campers are destroying the place. There were also empty cans of beers. It’s a good thing that bangkeros were the one collecting the garbage of their clients. I asked one bangkero who arrived later to take my empty can of sardines.
I call this place “Paradise”
I was about to snorkel when I heard the sound of a motor boat. Alone no more! So instead, I cooked my lunch even if it’s still past 10 am I think. I’ve positioned my DIY camping stove between the crevice. Then more boats came. They even had pictorials with my kayak. After I had my lunch, I decided to leave the place because it’s getting crowded already. Although there were beautiful girls on their swimsuits, some kababayans and some foreigners, I didn’t dare to take snap on them. I might get in trouble.
So I traced my way out of the cove. But stopped in the middle to take some pictures of the cove before returning to open water. Tracing the coastlines eastward. My next quest was to find the Tayak Lake. I did found the beach that serves as the entrance to hidden lake. But before I reached the shoreline I was met by a shirtless man with a hand held radio and a jungle bolo on his side. He said they will not allowed visitors to get in because Suvivor will shoot. I know he was lying because the caretaker of the resort where I camped told me that the cast of survivors are on 10-day vacation. Bu I did not insists. Frustrated, I turned away and paddled back to Lahus Island where I spent my siyesta and watched the tourists came and go. I was surprised by the volume of visitors on that island alone. Sometimes three were twelve bancas docked at the same time. Squeezing each other on the beach. I talked with bankeros while waiting for their passengers. We where there at the foot of the rocks hiding from the sun. They said, the rental of the boat ranging from 2, 500 to 3,500 pesos depending on the number of passengers and depending on how many islands they will visit. Some tourists hired tour guides so that will be an additional expenses. If you’re about to go, you could save by not hiring a tour guide because boat men themselves knows the place and they will be your tour guides. However these boatmen don’t have access to internet so you can’t book or negotiate with them prior to your trip.
When I feel bored watching the people on the island, I decided to leave and headed back to Matukad Island. I found more interesting views of the island. On the east side of the island, there was a huge rock that looks like it was placed on top of rocks. Just like a canopy. I paddled to the other side of the island looking for the small beach that I remembered from google map. I found it but it was creepy. I mean I feel being enchanted. I was there floating on the water for more than an hour figuring out how to get to the beach without being slammed by the rocks by the waves. I could see the beach behind the tower rock that seems like guarding the beach. This rock has holes that serves as nests to birds. I really want to get to that beach but was afraid, my boat could be ripped off by the sharp rocks. I wish I have a company with me to take care of my kayak so that I could snorkel in between those rocks to the beach. Ant that is the thought of coming back some time. Would you dare coming with me? 🙂
It feels like some eyes are watching me…
My kayak on matukad island
View from the top of a rock in Matukad island
While on search for Tinago Cove
Behind this beach is the Tayak Lake. Unfortunately I was not allowed to get in by the guard.
My first morning in Caramoan
My DIY camping stove
My kayak, deflated